Two flagship treatments, two very different patients
Cosmelan and Dermamelan are the most-studied professional depigmentation protocols in clinical skincare. Both come from Spanish laboratory Mesoestetic, both target excess melanin at the source, and both have transformed the way clinics treat stubborn pigmentation. The difference between them is not "stronger or gentler" — it is type of pigment, depth of action, and medical supervision required.
The active formulation, side by side
Both masks share a Mesoestetic-patented blend of azelaic acid, kojic acid, phytic acid, ascorbic acid, arbutin and TXA-style tyrosinase inhibitors. The decisive difference is the addition of regulated depigmenting actives in Dermamelan — including a higher concentration of hydroquinone-class brighteners and additional keratolytics. That is why Dermamelan is a medical-only protocol applied by a doctor or trained dermatologist, while Cosmelan can be performed by a qualified skin-therapist.
Peeling intensity and downtime
- Cosmelan — mask worn 8 to 10 hours, removed at home, followed by a home-maintenance cream (Cosmelan 2). Expect visible peeling on days 3–6, erythema for the first week, and a return to normal social activities within 7–10 days.
- Dermamelan — mask worn 8 to 12 hours under medical guidance, with a more aggressive at-home protocol. Expect deeper desquamation, redness for 10–14 days, and a two- to three-week social downtime.
Which concern does each one solve best?
The two protocols target overlapping but distinct pigmentation patterns. Choose by the origin of the pigment, not by how dark the patch looks.
- Cosmelan — first choice for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne, ingrown hairs or trauma, mild-to-moderate sun damage, freckling, superficial melasma, and "tired" overall tone. Ideal on Fitzpatrick II–IV.
- Dermamelan — clinical answer for hormonal melasma (pregnancy, contraceptive- or HRT-induced), deep dermal pigmentation, recalcitrant cases that have not responded to Cosmelan or to tranexamic acid, and pigmentation in Fitzpatrick IV–VI where laser is high-risk.
Cost, protocol and longevity
Cosmelan is roughly half the investment of Dermamelan and can be repeated every 6–12 months as a refresh. Dermamelan is a one-off clinical reset paired with a strict 6-month maintenance routine; in well-managed cases the result holds for years, provided daily SPF 50 and the prescribed home care are followed without interruption.
Mandatory home care during and after either treatment
The mask does roughly 40% of the work. The remaining 60% is the home routine: a calming cleanser, the prescribed maintenance cream morning and night, a barrier-repair moisturiser, and an SPF 50+ every single morning — including in winter and indoors near windows. Skipping SPF rebounds the pigment within weeks.
Build the right kit
Whether you are preparing for an in-clinic session or maintaining a result, the right Mesoestetic home routine multiplies — and protects — the investment.
- Shop the full Mesoestetic range
- Targeted pigmentation treatments
- Daily SPF 50+ protection
- Read: professional peeling at home
- Read: dry vs. dehydrated skin
When to book a consultation first
Active pregnancy, breastfeeding, recent isotretinoin use, vitiligo, or pigmentation accompanied by itching or rapid change should always be assessed in clinic before either protocol. A trained skin-therapist or dermatologist will confirm the pigment type with Wood's-lamp examination and tailor the right Mesoestetic pathway to your skin — not the other way round.